Thursday, 23 April 2009

Erm... how do I say this...???

Apologies for the lack of updates over the last week, but the Nepalese clearly have bigger problems to deal with than sorting us foreigners out with internet access!
MAIN THING IS THOUGH - WE DID IT! Woohoo!!! Early on Tuesday afternoon we finally reached Mount Everest Base Camp at 5463m (ish lol). Trekking up and along the Khumbu glacier was amazing, though rather tough going as there's no track as such, just a basic trail mostly covered by newly-fallen boulders from the surrounding ridges.
It was strange being at Base Camp, what with people celebrating their acheivements, taking photos for sponsors, whilst others took time out for other personal reasons.
If I'm honest I'm probably a bit too spaced out to be writing this now, seeing as we walked from Pheriche to Namche Bazar in record time, but I thought I had better let you lovely people back home know that we made it there, made it back, are very sore following the experience, and would like to remind you that our sponsorship pages are still running!!!
Jen's - Justgiving for Macmillan
Ste's - Myactionaid for Actionaid
Be in touch with more details soon. Right now I need a drink.
Ste
x

Sunday, 19 April 2009

Dingboche reached OK!

Hey!
We reached Dingboche yesterday after a 6 or so hour trek from Tengboche. It was a fairly decent walk, although I think we are all now benefitting from the extra days at altitude.
It's still tough going, especially as the air is so dry. As we're now above 4000m which is roughly the treeline, the landscape is so much different to what we have seen so far. There are no trees... just boulders with the odd shrubby bush. In parts it's possitively desert-like with a lot of sand. In fact it doesn't look that dissimilar to the moon!
The majority of the group are now back up to speed following various bouts of S+D and the like. A couple of us last night (myself included) started suffering tremendous headaches. It was almost to the point where I thought my head was about to implode. Apparently it's just another sign of altitude sickness setting in. I'm glad to say though that following our "rest day" trek this morning up another 400m up the ridge, the headache has subsided. Let's hope it stays away this time.
If it wasn't for the fantastically-rewarding views on the way, no one in their right mind would willingly choose to trek these parts. With the sun beating down, the air so dry, the dust constantly choking and often blinding you, the cold winds and the almost vertical climbs (and descents) at times it really is hard going. We often stop for a breather, only to turn around and notice that way way way back further down the valley, was the place we stopped the day before for lunch, or where we started that morning. The distances we've covered and the altitudes we've gained are astounding.
We head up to Lobuche tomorrow, which is in the next valley. It's from there that we launch our assault on Everest Base Camp on Tuesday. We can no longer see Everest from our current location as we are too close and there's another mountain in the way. However, the panoramic views we encountered this morning at 15,200ft were astounding. Doing a 360 degree turn gave views of Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Lohtse and a whole host of others we keep losing track of. Half the problem is that we learned to recognise the various mountains from so far away, we're now right in the middle of them all and they all look so different!
Anyways, it's time to sign off. Internet access is becoming more and more difficult to obtain and more costly each village we reach.
Main thing is we are both fine - coping well with the elements and the physical demands of hiking in such a location!
Ste & Jen

Friday, 17 April 2009

Burrrrr.....

We have reached Tengboche after a bloody hard afternoon's walk, and Santosh said it was gradual! But we are here, very high at 3,800 meter and very cold. There is no phone signal and the internet is getting harder to find - we are using satalite internet now!We have spent a lot of time at te highest Buddhist monestry in the world, an incredible place with panoramic views of the mountains all round.So, if you don't hear from me in the coming days - we are not dead! It is just communication with the outside world is very hard up here. Wish us luck on our way to base camp!!! We can see tomorrows path from here and we are dreading it already! We may not be in contact until we have returned from base camp on Tuesday. Love you all Jen xxxx

Thursday, 16 April 2009

Are we there yet?

We both woke up this morning with faces swollen. Look like we have been beating each other up, but its just the altitude. However, we then hiked up a very steap mountain to 12,500 to see the first sight of Everest and it was cloudy!! Oh well, we did it to help us aclimitise for tomorrows trek to the next stop. We did see a little tiny bit though.
It is so dusty here, so most of us have scarfs over our noses, but it gets everywhere. We a have a free afternoon in Namche today, which after this morning is greatly needed. You would not believe how high we are in the mountains. Once in a while the cloud clears and these enormous mountains appear out of nowhere!
I truly can not believe I made it up that mountain this morning, it shows hat you can do if you push yourself.

Wednesday, 15 April 2009

Namche Bazar and going well so far!

Hi all,
Are we working for our sponsor money or what?! Today we trekked from Phakding to Namche Bazar. The 7-hour trek took us a further 840m up into the Himalayas. Going was VERY tough at times, especially as it was so warm. We battled on and made it OK :)
Jen found the latter part of today's walk particularly tough as she's only just getting over a cold, and as the air thins and the dust increases, breathing can become somewhat labourous. Not that I found it easy - I must confess to using Jen slightly for extra breaks along the route!
Random moment of the day was meeting a woman who works for ActionAid, my chosen beneficiary charity for this trip. She was rather chuffed to see someone marching up the mountain in one of their t-shirts!
We spend tonight and tomorrow night here at Namche Bazar. Tomorrow is a rest day, although how you can say a 4hr trek further up the mountain (+400m) and back down again is a rest, I don't know. But it's all part of the big plan to make sure we are sufficiently acclimatised to the altitude before we press on. It's only 7000ft more until we reach Base Camp :D
Aside from Jen's lingering cold, I think it's fair to say we are both in really good spirits. The food so far has been amazing. I dare say I'm eating better here than I do at home! The Buffalo cutlet and chips last night was particularly delicious :D
Anyways, it's time for us to toddle back off down to the lodge (even the internet cafe was up yet another hill lol) for dinner. A double vodka and coke awaits. And yes it's just one. At base camp half a can of lager get's you smashed, so I'm sure the double vodka will do me just fine for now.
Please do remember to keep the sponsorship money coming in. Like I mentioned earlier, we are certainly working bloody hard for it!!
Jen's sponsorship page is http://www.justgiving.com/everestbasecamp09 and mine is http://www.myactionaid.org.uk/SteSmith
Thanks again for all your support and wish us luck for the rest of the trek!
Ste & Jen

Tuesday, 14 April 2009

'Zoom zoomed' to Phakding

Hi all,
We finally made it up to Lukla on the flight today. We've now walked to Phakding at 2630m where we're spending the night in a rather cool teahouse.
Internet is patchy and slow when it works so these blog updates will be short.
But in the main, we are both fine. Perhaps a little more apprehensive after today as we actually decended 200m from Lukla today and were both rather knackered by the end. We ascend over 840m tomorrow over 6-7 hours, of which the last stretch up to Namche Bazar is a reknowned hard hike.
Hopefully we'll manage to get some internet access in NB and give a full update. Two of the group have already come down with S+D which is not a good sign... but they'll both be fine.
Current schedule puts us at Base Camp next Tuesday.
Be in touch soon
Ste & Jen

Monday, 13 April 2009

Frustrating day

Hey!
We should have by now been updating this from Lukla or our first night stop but unfortunately we are still stuck in Kathmandu.
We hung fire in the Hotel for a few hours this morning after being told Lukla airport was yet to open due to bad weather.
We had numerous attempts at boarding the plane, only to be told it had a "technical problem" and we would b assigned a different plane. We eventually took to the skies about 3 hours after our planned departure time. The flight was going well until someone decided we had to go back and abort the flight. Apparently the winds above the ridge on approach to Lukla were too high.
Despite hanging around in the departure lounge for what seemed like an age (again), hoping against hope that we might get another go-ahead. Unfortunately it was not going to happen. We have rescheduled our flight for 7.45 in the morning, which means a 6am start. Ouch. Good job it's only Everest Base Camp we're trekking to - anyone might think we might actually need a decent sleep before we go!
Anyways, that's all from us for now, an early night is certainly called for!
Ste & Jen
P.S. - Don't forget the purpose of our trip - to raise loads of money for Macmillan Cancer Support and ActionAid.
Sponsorship pages are Jen's and mine
P.P.S. The delayed start to the trip just means we have to walk quicker on the way down. We're still taking the planned time to ascend to Base Camp, so no worries there. :)